9 September 2008
I am sitting in the cloud of well being that comes after a particularly physical illness - the vomiting-diarrhea kind. The drugs have stopped the rolling monsters in my gut. I see positive in everything around me. The shadows on the fence, the dogs trotting down the road with ragged ropes around their necks. the children making their way to school, carrying little backpacks. Outside the car the wind is blowing so hard I could almost lean into it and remain upright. I have been in Dornagobi province for three days.
The Lonely Planet describes Sainshand as Mongolia's most "dusty and windy" aimag capital. This is true, but is is also the most affluent aimag capital that I have visited (which so far is only three, but that is more than most of you!). I have been told that this is because of mining income. There is significant construction going on, including a round, multi-storey hotel. The government has installed a pink 'mini' Eiffel tower, and a central fountain that is lit up with multi-coloured lights at night. What is it about fountains in towns in the desert?
While a long test was being conducted at the community garden well just outside the town I rested up in my hotel room, still pretty weak from being sick. After an afternoon snooze in the sun on my bed I turned on the tv. To my surprise there was a full compliment of cable tv channels. I spent some time observing the Aljazera English channel. It portrays itself as different to western media, but the news presentation feels like BBC.
At about 8pm I was wondering where the rest of the ADRA crew where - and I was getting hungry (first time in two days). I had water in a thermos that was still hot 24 hours after I was given the thermos, which is pretty impressive for a thermos. So I cooked up some instant noodles. While scoffing those down there was a knock at the door. The test was still going out at the garden and they were taking some food out - did I want to come?
The drive out was interesting in the dark, as there really isn't any road. We arrived at the garden and drove right up the well pump house. The team was doing a flow rate test on the well to see if they could run it dry, as the community had complained that they were running out of water. They had been going for six hours and the flow was still going strong. While they ate cold Chinese food I went for a walk in the dark. The wind had gone, the stars were ablaze across the sky. I stood in the dark with my head facing skywards. It was magnificent. I found myself humming "God you are my God, and I will ever praise you", which just seemed right for the moment.
About an hour later I was bouncing back into town - the ADRA staff ended up staying out there until about 2am and then they gave up trying to empty the well.....
Below, sunset out my hotel window.
