Saturday, April 05, 2008

Chris in the Countryside III

The republic of Mongolia is unique in many ways; landlocked, it shares a 3,485km-long border with Russia to the north and a 4,677km-long border with China to the south and is the least densely populated country in the world.

Mongolia's national seal

Historically, Genghis Khan (or Chingis Khan here in Mongolia) formed the nomadic tribes of Mongolia into the largest land empire ever seen.

Monument to Chingis Khan

Now, over 800 years later, the 2.9 million inhabitants of Mongolia have a democratic multiparty constitution – in contrast to the 70 years of soviet rule that finished abruptly in 1990.

It’s a beautiful place, known as "the land of blue sky", Mongolia is a remarkable sunlit country enjoying over 250 sunny days a year.The traditional nomadic and modern societies survive, despite fierce cold winters and warm summers.

Community in Bayankhongor

Bayanbulag Soum

There are five livestock animals that provide the basis for life in Mongolia. By far the most significant is the horse, the others in no particular order are; goats, sheep, yaks and camels.

Ger Household in Bogd Soum, Bayankhongor

During my recent monitoring trip I was looking at the amazing desert scenery when I saw the camel and riders. I signaled the driver and took a photo. ‘I feel like a tourist’, I said flippantly. ‘You are’, came the brisk reply from the project staff, ‘Go and show them the photo’. Off I went.

Camel with Enkhjargal and her son

Enkhjargal and her 4 year old son were collecting fuel for their fire, when we saw them. Raising goats for cashmere, they were working with our ADRA team - the reason why we were here today.

Camel with Enkhjargal and her son again

My mind wandered as the monitoring discussion really got going. To be honest, I wasn’t listening to the details of the project discussion, I was looking at the Camel. You see I really love the Mongolian camel. Thoroughly fascinating animals, they are double humped, mild mannered and their appearance is entirely charismatic.

The desert steppe of Mongolia is well suited to the camel – sub zero temperatures, severe winds, extreme dust, sparse feed and irregular supplies of water.

Camel

I wasn’t concentrating because I was tired and dirty. I hadn’t had a shower for over a week, wearing the same clothes and sleeping on a different lumpy mattress every night. Then I saw the young boy. He had climbed back up on to his camel and had fallen asleep curled up on the front hump. That bought memories of my 4 year old girl to my mind. I missed her terribly, even though I had only been away a week.

I was snapped back to reality when I heard my name. Did I want to ride the camel? I replied without hesitation and entirely without confidence, yes. Apparently ‘choo’ is the word you use to get the camel going. The ride was smooth and graceful. But when the camel had had enough Enkhjargal sent over her son to help me out.


Camel with expatriate tourist

Now the son looks after the family goats, and does that by riding his camel. I thought about my girl at home. Would she be able to look after the goats? I think she would be even more scared of the camel up close, than I was.



It’s great to meet people like Enkhjargal. Herders like her family are the backbone of this great country. A warm shower sure would be great, but my brief discomfort is in contrast to the challenge of living in the desert steppe of Mongolia.


Countryside at Zag Soum, Bayankhongor


Bayankhongor from the plane

Life puts up many challenges. We all have some issues, but for some people these struggles are basic – food, water and maybe even shelter. Here in Mongolia, ADRA is working with people like Enkhjargal to create more opportunities and choices for her family.

Another Camel

I am a big fan of the Mongolian camel.

I hope that my little girl gets to experience a camel ride for herself soon.



Sunset in a Soum centre, Bayankhongor