4th June 2008
We spent about nine hours in the car today on our way to Zavkhan. It is going to take us two days drive to get there. We paid a short visit to Erdene Zuu Khiid, which is Mongolia’s oldest monastery. It is built on the ruins of the ancient Mongol capital of Karakorum – which Chris is now an expert on having read at least three books on the empire of Genghis Khan.
The landscape is rolling and epic. We drove along valley floors most of the time with mountains or hills rising up – sometimes close and sometimes far away. The landscape looked the same but also changed constantly. Sometimes green with grass, sometimes sand and stones, sometimes covered in tiny white wildflowers, or tufts of purple flowers that looked like a form of iris.
It was a grey day, with on and off drizzle. There was enough rain to make puddles in the pot holes and ruts on the road. We often interrupted goats, sheep, horses or yaks having a drink. I think an inbuilt watering system for animals on the road is a good design, as there are many more animals than people.
It was common to see white gers dotted among the grass in the green valleys. It was also common to see a horse cart parked next to a satellite dish that was next to a solar panel propped against the wall of the ger. When we had lunch in a small roadside restaurant everyone was glued to the tv showing a Korean soap opera dubbed in Mngolian.
Animal herds roamed freely. Goats often mixed in with sheep, with horses or yaks nearby. The yaks were molting their winter coats and looked like hairy, shaggy monsters. One town was next to a river. We crossed several rivers that were just bodies of water flowing through brilliant green grass. This river was an exception, it had big trees growing across the flood plain. They were big and green and wonderful to see. I didn’t realise how much I miss trees. We were now in Arkhangai province – which the Lonely Planet describes as having: “astounding scenery: several volcanoes and volcanic lakes, wide rivers full of fish, extensive forests, and pastures where yak thrive. It also boasts the stunning lake, Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur, ruins of ancient kingdoms and probably the nicest aimag capital in the country.” I can vouch that it is all true.
We followed the river for an hour until we reached the provincial centre – Tsetserleg. This places lives up to its reputation for being pretty. It is set in a snug valley between mountains covered in dramatic rocks and outcrops. I have only seen it in the mist and rain os far, but it looked pretty good. The guesthouse has electric hot showers (big plus), nice clean linen and includes breakfast. www.fairfield mongolia.co.uk It is also a bakery and café, so I think we will come back here.
